It found that those models lost 21 percent of their range on average when temperatures drop to 32° Fahrenheit.
That is a pretty significant drop.
When its that cold I use a signifcant amount of fuel more than when its warmer. I think this will improve with better battery tech. I don’t think my petrol will.
Winter gas also has less energy in it than summer gas, due to the different (lighter hydrocarbon, mostly more butane) mix.
Fair, but my hybrid (not plugin) gets about the same efficiency regardless of outdoor temperature, it’s usually around 45-50 mpg. While pure combustion engines likely won’t improve, hybrid systems can absolutely thread that needle really well and are a great option if you need range in the winter.
We currently have a hybrid and a pure ICE car, and we’re planning on replacing them with an EV and a hybrid. I’m not giving up my hybrid until EVs can go >500 miles on a single charge, because we regularly go on road trips of >800 miles in a single day, and EV charging infra is pretty spotty in those areas.
Actually, I’m surprised they weren’t using them long before. It’s basically AC with an extra valve. Thought they get priced like they’re some sort of new technology.
There was never really a need in ICE vehicles since they can primarily use waste heat from the engine.
Pretty sure they meant EVs
Pretty sure @[email protected] meant to explain why they weren’t a thing in cars in general
Vapor injection is the new technology. It’s why older heat pumps were useless below 32f.
Vapor injection becomes an excuse to downsize the compressor and lowers the cost, it seems. You could easily go lower than 32 if you oversized the pump before EVI, but those were only in specific heatpumps.
I reckon they thought seat heating and steering wheel was enough, and it kinda is for the most part
I suspect the reason for that was that the pumps used in car ACs are not really very powerful. They were alright for cooling the car down, but for heating heat up in a cold environment you need a fair amount of throughput, they work if you have the throughput, but you need it to be there.
They work by pulling ambient heat out a large part of the outside and dumping it into the small inside. You need many times the contents of the interior to warm up if it’s a cold day outside. Thus you need a lot of air and if you want it to happen in a reasonable time frame you need quite a powerful little motor. The ones on houses are fine because they’re huge anyway.
It uses the same amount of energy to create cold as it does to create heat.
Heart pumps don’t create heat, they move it.
They also need to be able to get the cold side colder than the outside air so once it gets too cold they don’t really work. There can also be some problems with condensation but when they do work they’re great.
Is this really an article saying heat pumps are more efficient than resistive heaters? Yes, that is why heat pumps exist.
The biggest issue is the battery itself. If it gets cold enough you can have difficulty even charging an EV outdoors. I would be a lot more concerned with whether or not my battery is well insulated and heated. Heat pumps are great and should be the default, but unless you’re going really far or have a very low range EV it’s not a huge issue.
Yes, resistive heat is expensive, but that’s only part of what makes heat pumps in cars more effective. They don’t just heat your cabin, they heat your battery so you maintain range while it’s cold out. Here’s an article with more details and some pretty infographics.
It defintely is a huge issue, considering resistive heaters use 3x as much energy. Most EVs have a “low range” and anything you can do increase it without adding more batteries and weight, especially in winter, is a huge advantage.
The lowest range EV in the US is 114 miles. The average commute is 52 miles. Most EVs sold in the US have a range of 250 miles or more. So a resistive heater eating 10% of your range is way less of an issue than your battery not charging properly in cold weather. Again, heat pumps should be available, but they aren’t going to save you if cold weather kills your battery.
if cold weather kills your battery
Tell us you’ve never driven an EV, especially in cold weather, without telling us you’ve never driven sn EV in cold weather.
Or maybe you should teach Norway how bad EVs are in cold weather, since over 90% of new car sales are EVs there.
Tell us you didn’t read the entire context of the thread without telling us you didn’t read the entire context of the thread.
Also, the fucking news for the last few years? There are EVs out there without enough cold protection for their batteries. Which is why, if you can drag your ego back up the thread, you’ll see that my original post said I would be more concerned with making sure my battery had those protections than a heat pump because the affect on range is much more drastic.
You know, as the article in the post points out. EVs are not all the same.
You still need resistive heat as heatpumps don’t work below about -20C and those temperatures happen to at least some car buyers.
heatpumps don’t work below about -20C
I don’t think that’s true? There are cold weather models that can work at COPs > 1.5 at -30C. Are we talking about a sizing constraint for the model here, perhaps?
There are, but then I think you’d have problems with the effective rang of the AC in the summer. To my knowledge this is all about at what temperature the coolant is a liquid and when it’s a gas (because that’s how you exchange heat).
A traditional AC only needs coolant that does this at summer temperatures. A heat pump tries to use one that will work at colder temperatures as well. A cold weather heat pump goes even further but I think there is a sacrifice in AC efficiency in the summer.
Somone please correct me if I’m wrong. But I’m not sure if a do-it-all extreme cold and extreme hot heat pump exists, and as a car manufacturer you want to put in the one that will fit most cases, as opposed to a house which only needs to operate in the range of the climate it is built in.
It would make sense if the two stage heat pumps use different liquids in the different stages. I don’t actually know how these are made, so I can’t assert that this is how it works, but I would be surprised if it worked any other way.
Im in one of those places but where im at its rare and at this point I will resist leaving the house pretty massively at those temps.
If it is rare enough and you don’t have an emergency that is the right thing. Odds are the rest of your city doesn’t have the ability to deal with those temperatures and so you going out will make things harder for emergency workers who must get out. If your city deals with this often then everyone will know how to deal with it and expect you to deal with it. You cannot shutdown your life for something that happens every single year, but if it is just a day or two every 5 years it isn’t worth being knowing how to deal with it other than the minimum emergency needs (that is make sure your HVAC system at home can handle it)
I mean its more like we can go a winter without below zero F. Its a lot less common in the last decade and usually it does not last to long and that is really for lows. Highes below zero aren’t shockers but yeah we can go some years now without them and for most folks they are doing things while the sun is up. My thing is if I grab a metal doorknob with a bare hand and it is actually painful, then its like ef this im staying inside unless someone forces me out. Even back in the early aughts I had a job that was not wfh all the time like now but did it as needed and I could easily email I was wfh do to the weather being extreme. Its actually the wfh policy outside of all the time type one I like the best. wfh anytime there is a reason to and actually that place was like do not come in if you are sick. if you came in and coughed you would get the maybe you should have stayed home today comment.
Yes, they should have both.
I know the resistive heater in my Volt can’t compare to the heat put out by the ICE. Often in the winter we’ll have to run the ICE to keep the cabin warm enough. It does have heated seats and wheel, but my wife is the type to set the heat to max until it gets too hot rather than just picking a temp and hitting auto to let the car manage it.
If the heat pump can put out more heat for less energy, that would be a boon. That might be the second biggest issue (next to range) that has my wife vetoing an all-electric car. She gets the next vehicle, but I want the one after that to be a full EV.
Fwiw, I’ve never had a lack of heat from my cars heat pump. It even warms up faster than a gasoline engine would. Most importantly, I can turn it on remotely to get warm before I get in the car. I never had that with a gas engine
Yeah and a lot are moving to heat pumps if they don’t already use them.
https://www.recurrentauto.com/questions/which-electric-vehicles-have-heat-pumps
There’s a list of models that have them.
If you have two cars, one EV and one ICE is a great option. I do recommend whoever is more enthusiastic about EVs get the first one, though.
As someone in a rural state, cold weather range is one of my chief concerns. I work from home but on the weekends travel to far away backcountry areas to ski.
I’d like to get a full EV when my current lease expires(2.5 years) but the pool of cars that are affordable, have AWD, and 300 miles of range(aka 180-225 in winter) is quite limited.
Just leased an Ioniq 6 and been loving it. Depending on what you consider affordable, it checks your boxes! I leased mine during a major sale and with a trade in, though.
In 2.5 years, the EV market will look very different. Just the last year has shifted a lot around with the used market (such as Hertz cycling out a bunch of Teslas and offloading them cheap).
You’re probably a better candidate for a plug-in hybrid.
Yeah I’m coming to terms with that now lol. Debating between leasing with the hopes to get a full EV after another 3 years, or just buying a PHEV.
Just saying that the Prius Plug-in Hybrid seems to be an excellent PHEV.
What’s the upper end of affordable for you?
I’m paying ~$450/month for my lease now(Hyundai Tucson), but I could probably afford up to $1000/month if it’s something I really liked.
I’m paying $599 for my 2024 EV9 with 280 miles
NGL that thing looks like a pop tart box 😂.
Also I definitely don’t want/need a 3rd row of seats.
haha it’s a godsend with 2 kids/car seats and regular Costco runs
Gotcha! I’m not great with the intricacies of leasing, but take a quick look at Lucid Air. Their site claims “from” $700-730 monthly for 36 month lease. And they’re supposed to be ridiculously efficient with great range
If that’s not really your jam (I wouldn’t blame you), maybe Hyundai Ioniq 6, Kia EV6, Cadillac Luriq, or Polestar 2, probably with my personal preferences in that order
Or take a walk on the sub-300 mile wild side and pick up a used Taycan wagon!
Appreciate all your suggestions!
At the risk of sounding nit picky, I’m not a fan of sedans so the Lucid Air/Ioniq 6/Polestar 2 are out.
The EV6 and Luriq are enticing. The polestar 3/4 is super cool but I hate the no physical climate buttons/huge iPad display.
Honestly the Volvo V60 hybrid is my ideal car if it were full EV and a little cheaper.
Volvo wagons are sexy, with any powertrain!
Check out the 2023 Q8 e-tron. There’s usually good lease deals on them and they meet that list. Wait for them to come off lease and you can get them at a steal. I’d recommend the 2022 but those had a smaller battery pack and wouldn’t meet your range.
Good call, looks interesting. I’ll take a look
Ignore that guy, Kia Ev9 is better
Chevy Equinox? I guess it depends on what you call affordable and how long the $7500 federal tax credit survives
Not a bad option but still below 300 miles with the AWD.
